Tel. 043 234 75 75
Tel. 043 234 75 75
If fogged cellar windows, damp walls, wet floors, or a musty smell suddenly appear in September, October, or November, water damage is often not the cause.
Often, moisture in the cellar is caused by condensation. Warm and humid outside air enters the cool cellar, cools down, and may reach its dew point. The air can then no longer fully hold the contained water vapor. Moisture precipitates on cold cellar walls, floors, windows, or pipes.
The most important cause of a damp cellar in autumn is the temperature difference between the outside air and the cellar. Cellar walls and floors made of concrete, masonry, or natural stone often remain significantly cooler after summer than the outside air.
For example, if 20 °C warm and humid outside air enters a cellar with 12 to 15 °C, it cools down there. The colder the air becomes, the less water vapor it can absorb. When the dew point is reached, water vapor begins to condense.
This explains why a cellar can become damp even if no water penetrates through the walls.
Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Therefore, not only the relative humidity but also the air temperature is crucial.
If the temperature of humid air drops to the dew point, excess water vapor can no longer remain gaseous in the air. It turns into liquid water.
In the cellar, this is evident, for example, by:
This is one of the most common reasons for problems with cellar dampness in autumn.
If a cold cellar is ventilated during warm and humid weather, outside air with a high moisture content enters the room. As this air cools in the cellar, its relative humidity increases. If the dew point is reached, condensation can form.
Therefore, opening the cellar window does not automatically mean that the moisture disappears from the cellar.
A cellar should be ventilated specifically in autumn, and not just as often as possible. The temperature and moisture content of the outside air are particularly important.
If the outside air is cooler and drier than the cellar air, ventilation can be useful. This allows damp cellar air to be vented outside.
In muggy weather, high humidity, or humid fog, prolonged ventilation can, however, be counterproductive. The additional moisture then enters the cellar and can condense on cold surfaces.
| Weather condition | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Cool and dry | Good for ventilation |
| Cold and dry | Well suited |
| Warm and muggy | Keep cellar as closed as possible |
| Rain and high humidity | Ventilate only specifically and briefly |
| Humid fog | No prolonged ventilation |
Autumnal fog is particularly interesting for cellars. The air can be almost saturated with water vapor.
If this humid outside air enters a significantly colder cellar, it can cool further and form condensation on cold surfaces.
Therefore, with fog, it should not automatically be assumed that an open cellar window dries out the indoor air.
Not all moisture in the cellar has the same cause. Before taking measures, you should determine whether it is condensation or penetrating or rising moisture.
| Observation | Possible cause |
|---|---|
| Moisture mainly in summer and autumn | Condensation due to humid outside air |
| Fogged windows after ventilating | Condensation |
| Moisture after heavy rain | Possible water ingress |
| Damp wall rising from the floor | Possibly rising damp |
| Water penetrates through cracks or joints | Possible structural water ingress |
As a rough guide, a relative humidity of about 50 to 60 % is a good range for many dry cellars. However, the optimal setting depends on use, temperature, and stored items.
| Relative humidity | Classification |
|---|---|
| 40–55 % | Very dry and favorable for sensitive stored goods |
| 55–60 % | Well suited for many cellars |
| 60–70 % | Increased humidity – observe development |
| Over 70 % | Unfavorable for many materials over prolonged periods and increased mold risk |
Not just a single measured value is important here. The development of humidity over several days is more meaningful.
A hygrometer shows the relative humidity and temperature in the cellar. This allows for a better assessment of whether ventilation actually helps or possibly increases the humidity.
Anyone who wants to permanently control humidity in the cellar should not rely solely on smell or visible moisture.
If the cellar air is persistently too humid, a systematic approach is recommended.
First, check whether condensation, penetrating water, or another source of moisture is present.
A hygrometer helps to objectively assess the development of cellar humidity.
Ventilate specifically when the outside air is actually drier than the cellar air.
If humidity remains high despite proper ventilation, a suitable dehumidifier for the cellar can be used.
A device with a humidistat can monitor humidity and control dehumidification automatically.
A dehumidifier in the cellar is particularly useful if the humidity remains persistently high or if the cellar can only be poorly or weather-dependently ventilated.
For a dehumidifier to operate efficiently, the air in the room should be able to circulate as well as possible.
The required running time depends on room size, temperature, initial humidity, and device performance.
A very damp cellar can initially be dehumidified for many hours or several days. After that, a device with a humidistat can automatically control the humidity.
How long the compressor actually runs depends on the moisture load and ambient conditions.
Power consumption does not only depend on the electrical power input of the device. It is also crucial how long the compressor actually works.
| Situation | Effect |
|---|---|
| Very damp cellar | Longer running time for initial dehumidification |
| Device with humidistat | Automatic switching on and off |
| Well-sealed cellar | Less humid outside air enters |
| Window permanently open | Moisture can constantly flow in |
A musty cellar smell can indicate increased humidity, damp materials, or incipient mold growth.
Especially cardboard, textiles, wood, and other moisture-sensitive materials can develop odors with persistently high humidity.
A dehumidifier can keep the indoor air drier. However, existing mold must be professionally removed, and the cause of the moisture eliminated.
| Mistake | Better solution |
|---|---|
| Ventilating the cellar in all weather | Compare outside and cellar air |
| Leaving windows open in muggy weather | Keep windows closed |
| Judging moisture by feel only | Use a hygrometer |
| Operating a dehumidifier with an open window | Keep the room as closed as possible during dehumidification |
| Ignoring structural causes | Check walls, floor, and sealing |
Persistently increased humidity can increase the risk of mold. Cold surfaces, poorly ventilated corners, and areas behind furniture or stored items are particularly critical.
Therefore, cellar humidity should not be controlled only when visible mold has already formed.
If cellar walls appear damp in autumn, a distinction should first be made between condensation and structural moisture.
For condensation, adjusted ventilation and, if necessary, a dehumidifier help. If, however, water penetrates through walls, joints, or cracks, the cause of the water ingress must be remedied.
The most common cause of a damp cellar in autumn is condensation. Warm and humid outside air enters the cool cellar, cools down there, and can form condensation when the dew point is reached.
Therefore, proper ventilation is particularly important. A cellar should not automatically be ventilated as often as possible in autumn. It is crucial whether the outside air is actually drier than the cellar air.
If the humidity remains persistently high, a suitable dehumidifier for the cellar can be a reliable way to control the drying of the indoor air.
For private cellars and hobby rooms, for example, the WDH-520EB (AKTO 521) can be used. For larger or more humid rooms, for example, the Fral FDK44 is suitable.
Often, warm and humid outside air enters the cool cellar. As this air cools, the relative humidity increases, and condensation can form at the dew point.
When warm, humid outside air enters a cold cellar, it cools down. This can significantly increase the relative humidity, and condensation can form on cold surfaces.
Yes, but specifically. Ventilation is particularly useful when the outside air is drier than the cellar air. In warm, muggy, or very humid weather, however, ventilation can increase cellar dampness.
For many dry cellars, about 50 to 60 % relative humidity is a good guideline. However, temperature, use, and stored materials are also crucial.
A dehumidifier can be useful if the humidity remains elevated for a prolonged period, condensation occurs, the cellar smells musty, or stored items become damp.
This depends on the room size and moisture load. For many private cellars and hobby rooms, for example, the WDH-520EB (AKTO 521) may be suitable. For larger or more humid rooms, for example, the Fral FDK44 is suitable.
Yes. Especially in summer and autumn, warm, humid outside air in a cold cellar can lead to condensation. Therefore, ventilation should depend on the temperature and moisture content of the outside air.
Condensation occurs when moist air cools to the point where it can no longer fully retain the water vapour it contains. The excess water then condenses on cold surfaces.
Persistently high humidity can promote the growth of mould. Cold surfaces and poorly ventilated areas are particularly at risk.
Monitor temperature and humidity, ventilate only in suitable weather conditions, and keep the basement as closed as possible when outdoor air is very humid. If humidity remains high long-term, a dehumidifier can help.
A musty smell can be caused by persistently high humidity, damp materials, or mould growth. The cause should be investigated, and the humidity reduced.
A combination of regular humidity control, proper ventilation, adequate air circulation, and, if necessary, automatic dehumidification can help. If water is entering, the structural causes must also be remedied.
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